Paradise Found in Puglia

If there really is such a thing as the ideal Mediterranean paradise, it most certainly lies in Puglia-- that is, the "heel" of Italy's "boot."  But don't take my word for it, as Puglia has proven a popular destination for adventuresome travelers for thousands of years.  The Greeks were the first folks to drop in on the native Puglians, sometime during the first millennium BC, bringing with them wine, philosophy, and of course, a healthy respect for the indigenous people and there customs.  Some hundreds  of years later (long after the natives had been respected on out of there) the Romans arrived, bringing with them, as was their custom, the usual blend of law and order and rape and pillage. In 216 BC Hannibal and his Carthaginians came and won a decisive military victory; they ruled for a number of years (more law, more order, and so forth) until the Romans again asserted control. Then came the Goths, then the Lombards, then the Byzantines. The Byzantines duked it out with the Saracen Muslims for a number of centuries (all the while respecting the hell out of the local populous, mind you) until the Normans drove them all out and set up a system of well-organized feudal baronies, managed no doubt by enlightened and right-minded overlords of a humanist bent. So matters stood until the ungrateful Puglians declared independence in 1861, and joined the newly confederated country of Italy.

Okay, so maybe "paradise" doesn't quite come through in the telling of history-- be that as it may, Puglia has one of the world's most ideal climates for the growing of the vine; in fact, after Spain's La Mancha region, Puglia produces more wine by volume than anywhere else in Europe. Albeit, most of the afformentioned wine is country fair (only about 10% ever even sees bottle), Puglia's varied visitors have brought many an interesting grape to her fertile soils, and the advent of the EU has seen a dramatic increase in viticultural funding, and therefor, wine quality.

The most recognizable of the area's varietals is probably Primitivo -- even if you've never heard of it,  you've likely met the wine as Zinfandel, proven recently to be its genetic equivalent. However, the cousins are not identical; the Italian often coming off more rustic and less intense than his more cosmopolitan and boisterous American counterpart. A wonderful example, both zin-tasty and distinctly Italian is the Zicari Calabrigo Primitivo di Manduria-- medium-to-full bodied with a slightly tarry nose, complex blackberry fruit and a keen acidity, small production beauty is perfect for lying down or opening now with a juicy steak (also, check out the unique label, hand glued on premise at the winery). For those with more international tastes, Zicari produces and wonderful Merlot- Primitivo blend called Solicato-- Great acidity like its big brother, with a more fruity nose, lighter body, and rounder tannic structure.

Another lesser known but equally distinctive Puglian varietal is Uve di Troia, sometimes known as Nero di Troia. Whatever the name, wines of this grape are thin on the ground in America, but garnering more and more acclaim in their native land. For an taste of what Troia can offer (and hopefully what you may expect more of in the future), pick up the Alberto Longo 'Le Cruste'. Watch out, this one's a monster-- mouth puckering tannin, but balanced out with equivalent dark fruit and sharp acidity (think of it as a more food friendly Petite Sirah). Also, try Giancarlo Ceci’s Parco Grande Castel del Monte, where a smaller amount of Troia lends a pretty violet character to this blend of earthy Montepulcano and bright Aglianico.

Undoubtedly, the king of the Puglian varietals is Negroamaro-- so important is it to the Puglian wine trade that its plantings there alone are enough to make it the 6th most planted grape in Italy! It’s most ubiquitous incarnation is the regional wine Salice Salentino-- think of it as the Chianti of the South: very food friendly, often light bodied, very variable quality. Whatever else might be said, find a good Salice Salentino producer and you’ve found yourself a versatile value—I suggest the Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva 2001, which is more full and extracted than the norm, seeing 6 months in barrique and minimal filtration.

Negroamaro's most elegant expression is found in the region of Copertino, a tiny commune towards the very south of the province. Like Chatenauef-du-Pape, Copertino wine may be made up of a plethora of grapes, but at least seventy percent must be derived from Negroamaro.  While the majority of wine is produced by the local co-operative, there are a handful of quality private producers, including Apollonio, a relatively large, very modern operation located in the nearby town of Lecce. Their basic Copertino is a blend of 70 % Negroamaro, 15% Montepulciano, with the difference made up of other native varietals. The nose is full of a dark currant character that any Cabernet lover would recognize, and gives way to more rustic briar elements on the palate; the tannins are chewy, and the finish lingering.

The older sister to the Copertino is a gorgeous reserva version named Divoto. This 70 % Negroamaro / 30% Montepulciano is aged in french oak for two years and sees an additonal 12 months in bottle before release. The wine exhibits an amazingly complex nose right out of the gate, full of liquorice, tar, raisins and purple fruit, which over time evolves into crushed black pepper and other spices. Where the basic Coportino was chewy, the two years barrel time have smoothed the Divoto into silk, displaying a concentration / integration factor almost unheard in a wine this young; beautiful, and an amazing value at twice the price!

Whether Puglia is your version of paradise or not - Puglia is producing fabulous wines and they will hopefully soon be raking in the praise they deserve. 

Cheers,

Rob Rutledge, your Italian Wine Specialist