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The Spirit of Independence Day

 Well, Independence Day is here, and time to engage in those greatest of American traditions:  barbecue, baseball, potato salad, fireworks, and of course, wine!  Yes,  wine is as American as apple pie, and is intrinsically linked to the founding of America! 

Okay, that might be a bit of a stretch, but here is a fun fact: Thomas Jefferson, the author of the document that this day celebrates, was one of the nation's first oenophiles! He developed a deep and abiding love of the vine while studying at The College of William and Mary in Williamsburg, Virginia. After the war, Jefferson spent a number of years abroad as our fledgling nation's Minister to France, where he visited many of Europe's greatest wineries.

While impressed enough to fill his cellar with many fine European vintages, Jefferson remained vehemently pro-American, boasting "We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good." Inevitably, he put his money where his mouth was, and planted a sizable vineyard containing both native and French varietals on his Monticello estate. Unfortunately, Jefferson might have spoken a bit out of turn, as his vineyards never produced a vintage, being under constant attack by indigenous pests. Be that as it may, the man's zeal and dedication did establish the dream, which was later realized after the invention of pesticides and grafting.

Jefferson would be heartened to see the burgeoning wine industry developing in his native Commonwealth of Virginia, and that his estate and its surrounding countryside represent one of the state's best appellations, appropriately deemed "Monticello." For a taste of some of the best from Jefferson's own back yard, try any one of the fabulous wines from Barboursville Vineyards-- the Reserve Barbera ($23.99) or the Viognier ($24.99) are fantastic barbecue wines, great with steak and salad respectively. Taste the wine, and experience Jefferson's dream.

Feeling patriotic yet? No? Well, why not take a break from grilling and play a rousing game of Continental Congress? All you need is about 56 close friends, an equivalent number of powdered wigs and a good number of quills and well stocked inkwells. Now all of you don your finest woolen coats and stockings, crowd into a stuffy, un-air-conditioned room (remember, no deodorant allowed!) and yell loudly at each other about slavery, syntax, and what a jerk that George III guy is. Having fun yet? Good! Now you can toast your success with a hearty glass of Madeira, just like the founding fathers did way back when.

Madeira is a fortified wine from a tiny island of the coast of Portugal-- it was a de-facto favorite in the colonies in that, unlike most wine, it tastes better once its gone bad. Any wine collector will tell you at length about the importance of proper storage temperature-- if a wine gets even the slightest bit too warm for too long, the flavor may be ruined. Back during the age of exploration, mariners and traders did not have the luxury of climate control; whole wine casks were adulterated with alcohol and shipped oversees with impunity, and what wine actually survived the voyage was often oxidized and rather gross. However, one wine, to everyone's amazement, got better, reveling in the burnt caramel flavors that come with oxidation. Nowadays, the lengthy see voyage is replicated by a sauna type devise called an estufa, or through extended exposure to direct sunlight. Madeira's sweetness level varies between very sweet to bone dry-- but all share a very full body, high alcoholic content, and that aforementioned burnt quality. One of my absolute favorites is the Leacock 10 year old Bual ($39.99), a relatively mellow, medium-sweet offering with a nut-and-raisin finish. If you prefer something more on the sweet side, try this 5 year old Malmsey ($22.99).

When thinking "Forth of July," it would be downright rude not to consider our pals the French. Yes, I know, we aren't on the best of terms right now, but what is a little political tension between such old friends? Granted, their aid in establishing our little republic was primarily a means of antagonizing their perennial foes, the Brits... but no matter! Toast the valiant General Lafayette this Independence Day with these fine French quaffs:

Les Vendanges du Domaine Rougie 18-09-2005 Cinsault ($13.99) --  Quite a mouthful, both in name and in character. Cinsault is one of the most planted grapes in the world, but despite that is rarely listed on a label. Though it has a reputation as a sub-par blender, on its own Cinsault may express a simple, fruity character not unlike Beaujolais.
The Domaine Rougie is round but light, yielding generous raspberry on the palate, and just a hint of mint. The finish is dry but fruity-- its kind of like a very full bodied rose, and as such is absolutely delicious with a slight chill. A great red wine for drinking in the summer sun.

Caves de Vouvray "La Crae" 2004 ($14.99) -- One hundred percent Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, this dry expression of the type has a brilliant, almost effervescent quality thanks to its ample acidity. This wine sees no wood, and is therefore young and fresh, with a slight mineral quality on the finish thanks to its schisty heritage. It will be your vegetarian party guest's best friend, being an easy match with white fish, summer squash, or even a veggie burger

Chateau Morin Saint-Estephe 2004 ($15.99) - Looking for something with a bit more punch? Try the Chateau Morin, a Bordeaux from the esteemed Saint-Estephe appellation, where a shelf price of $16 is almost unheard of! Classic graphite/cassis nose, lush mouth-feel thanks to the merlot, firm tannins from the cab. This wine wants red meat, and wants it now!

 Have a great Forth of July one and all, and remember, these wines may be enjoyed all year long, as long as you keep the spirit of the holiday in your heart! Oh, and please bear in mind, though it may seem like a good idea at the time, wine and roman candles just do not mix-- proper glass swirling can be quite challenging with missing digits.

Cheers!
by Rob Rutledge, Your Independence loving Wine Specialist




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